The Greens among Greys

By Arijit Gupta
Sunday, June 23, 2024

THIS PROJECT HAS BEEN NOMINATED FOR THE
INFORMATION IS BEAUTIFUL AWARDS 2024 LONGLIST

The Wikipedia definition of an Urban Park is:

An urban park or metropolitan park, is a park or botanical garden in cities, densely populated suburbia and other incorporated places that offer green space and places for recreation to residents and visitors. Urban parks are generally landscaped by design, instead of lands left in their natural state. open_in_new

Just as every component that comes together to form a city, an urban park is often overlooked, but adds a great value to the city ecosystem. I live in a metropolitan in India, and like me, If you happen to live in another sprawling city anywhere in the country, you may find yourself getting further and further away from nature with every passing year. The green suburbs from our childhoods are now part of the bustling concrete jungle — an inevitable consequence of population growth and its needs. But just as urban growth is vital, so is nature for a healthy city. And urban parks offer a way to integrate these much-needed blues and greens amidst the city greys.

On assessing 22 major Asian cities, the Asian Green City Index 2011 reports that on average, cities have about 31.76% green space per square kilometer.

A Dilemma

Densely populated cities, teeming with diverse interests, demand a variety of recreational spaces that cater to their citizens' needs. However, a scarcity of large open spaces often forces a compromise — either indoor facilities with limited natural light and ventilation, or smaller outdoor areas with restricted activity options. Adding another layer of complexity, some may even be locked behind paywalls, potentially limiting choices even for those who can afford them. Unfortunately, even the few remaining large open spaces often suffer from a lack of maintenance, further limiting their appeal. And this is somewhat the scenery in the city where I grew up — Kolkata.

With a population of about 6 million and a staggering density of approximately 30,000 people per square kilometer, Kolkata is one of the most densely populated cities in the world. This densely packed cityscape stems from its historical roots. The present-day city is a conglomeration of numerous old hamlets, whose boundaries shaped and reshaped constantly throughout history. Many of Kolkata's landmarks, from grand parks to impressive palaces, are either from the British period or older. The Anglo sahibs and the local zamindars were very fond of majestic architecture and open spaces, shaping the city’s early development! Gradually, immigrants from nearby regions flocked into the city in search of work and shelter. Kolkata slowly became denser and more congested. Following independence, the city became ground zero for decades of political turmoil, which reshaped its socio-economic landscape. Kolkata, once a city of rich sahibs and zamindars, became a haven for laborers and the working class, for whom recreational spaces were a distant luxury. Consequently, though several beautification projects were proposed afterward, they were either shelved or moved out of city bounds where there were more open spaces available.

The cityscape of South Kolkata from the top of the Acropolis Mall in Kasba, showing the dense sprawling city with patches of greenery, and the suburban Kolkata in the distance. Photographed by Arijit Gupta in 2019.
The cityscape of South Kolkata from the top of the Acropolis Mall in Kasba, showing the dense sprawling city with patches of greenery, and the suburban Kolkata in the distance.

However, a park located far beyond city limits can't fully fulfill the true function of an urban park. Ideally, an urban park serves as an extended backyard for a neighborhood's residents, offering easy access and virtually no restrictions. These green spaces should be welcoming to all and provide dedicated areas for various recreational activities. In Kolkata, where many residents lack access to greenery, let alone a backyard or a garden, an urban park becomes more crucial. While the landscaping within an urban park may be carefully planned rather than naturally occurring, this planning serves a purpose. Strategic placement of amenities and recreational spaces helps guide visitors for a more enjoyable experience and provides them with essential facilities. Surprisingly, when properly maintained, even these man-made urban parks can become havens for the natural world as well! Diverse flora and fauna can thrive in this space, creating a small, self-sustaining ecosystem and contributing to a healthy city environment. Imagine escaping the daily grind and spending an afternoon amidst nature in a local park – a perfect way to break free from the monotony of city life, without feeling like you're spending money on a luxury.

So, you can understand the conflict! For a city like Kolkata, while urban parks can be a luxury, thinking about citizen welfare, they can become a necessity. There are a few places in Kolkata that, despite the congestion, have been playing the role of urban parks for more than half a century now. And surprisingly, they are living testaments on how an urban park can improve urban life! I want to share the story of one of those places today. This is Rabindra Sarobar, or simply — Lake!

Lake

Rabindra Sarobar is a vast area of greenery in the heart of South Kolkata, the main attraction of which is a collection of man-made lakes. So locally it is known as just Lake or Sarobar. Previously it was called Dhakuria Lake. I would have taken some time to discuss the history of the park, but the little I could scrape from the internet, is already presented more meticulously by none other than Mr. Deepanjan Ghosh (remember RJ Deep, from Sunday Suspense?), on his blog The Concrete Paparazzi.

Owing much to Rabindra Sarobar, the surrounding neighborhoods in South Kolkata grew up to be some of the most popular and populated residential areas. The location is also exceptionally accessible, those who have lived anywhere nearby can vouch for it. Southern Avenue borders the park to the north, while Sarat Chatterjee Avenue flanks its western edge. The South End Park residential area demarcates the eastern boundary, and the Kolkata Suburban Railway line forms the southern limit, with Lake Gardens and Tollygunge stations offering convenient railway access. Furthermore, four major road junctions of South Kolkata — Gariahat More, Jadavpur PS, Tollygunge Phari, and Rashbehari More — lie within close proximity. Additionally, the Rabindra Sarobar Metro Station provides a direct subway connection. And the most interesting transport service running parallelly with Lake, is another heritage of the city — the Ballygunge ⇌ Tollygunge tramway. So, even if you’re not in South Kolkata, Lake is still easily accessible and can be reached without any hassle!


Sarobar also plays a crucial ecological role! The city grapples with the urban heat island effect, where concrete jungles trap heat, making summer sweltering. Kolkata’s proximity to the Tropic of Cancer intensifies this issue. Fortunately, Sarobar’s dense tree cover acts as a giant air conditioner, cooling the surrounding areas and providing a much-needed respite from the scorching heat.

Average Daily Temperature of Rabindra Sarobar

compared to 4 other Weather Monitoring Stations in and around South Kolkata


Due to it's extensive tree coverage, Rabindra Sarobar's temperature reading can be seen remains generally lower than the other stations.

Flora & Fauna

But this dense tree coverage isn’t just extensive, it’s remarkably diverse as well. Unlike any typical park, Rabindra Sarobar’s floral diversity is unique. We spent hours in life science classes learning about plants and fungi, yet rarely encountered them firsthand. With dwindling greenery, today's children may never see common trees like neem or mango, let alone those exotic varieties from textbooks. Sarobar bridges this gap, offering a living museum of trees. Even many botanists acknowledge it as a conservatory for many rare and unique plant and fungi species. Curious about the park's botanical wonders? Check out Mr. Debjit Mukherjee's comprehensive list, pinpointing the location and information for every distinct tree species at the lake!

Beyond the trees, Rabindra Sarobar is also home to a diverse fauna. Over 200 bird species flock to the park during migration season, transforming it into a haven for birdwatchers. These enthusiasts diligently record their observations on platforms like iNaturalist and eBird, contributing significantly to our understanding of the lake's rich birdlife and raising awareness about this unique ecosystem. In fact, I also came to know about the various species from these online resources and a fantastic Facebook group called “Biodiversity of Rabindra Sarobar”!

And not just birds, several other types of animals and insects can also be found there.

Activities & other Attractions

Shifting gears from its ecological importance, Sarobar surely plays a lot more role as an urban park. There are a number of recreational activities one can take part in at Lake. It is home to some of the most respected Swimming, Rowing, and Cricket academies in the city! There are also some Football and Archery academies and also houses the No. 2 Bengal Naval Unit NCC. Talking about Football, it is worth mentioning that one of the oldest Football stadiums in the city is at the northwest corner of the park — Rabindra Sarobar Stadium. But even without enrolling in an academy, you can surely visit for physical exercise, yoga, a refreshing swim in the public pool, or friendly games of cricket or football.

And apart from athletic activities, there is so much more to do in and around Rabindra Sarobar! The park contains Nazrul Mancha, an auditorium that is the venue for the famed Dover Lane Music Conference. There is an age-old mosque situated on an island on the lake, about which you might have already read from the last piece by Mr. Deepanjan Ghosh. An iron bridge connects the island to the mainland, which was built in 1926! If you step outside Gate No. 1 and walk towards Dhakuria Bridge, after a few steps, you can find the only Japanese Buddhist Temple in the city —The Nipponzan Myohoji Temple. You can again visit Deep's blog to know more about the story of this temple!

Re-enter from Gate No. 1, heading south along the lake, you'll encounter a fascinating relic within a few meters: three cannons, likely unearthed during the lake's excavation and believed to date back to the pre-colonial era. While some speculate they belonged to Nawab Siraj-ud-Daula's arsenal, the location and historical context remain unclear. Continuing your walk, you'll soon stumble upon a modern gem - the "Ma Phire Elo" museum. This captivating museum showcases Durga Puja idols from past years, representing some of the city's most celebrated pujas. You can read more about it on this blog by veteran chronicler Mr. Rangan Datta:



Interactive Map of Rabindra Sarobar and it's Places of Interest

Prevailing Issues

Despite its charm, Rabindra Sarobar faces a few challenges. The generally sparse crowds, a positive for the environment, can also attract unwelcomed public displays of affection, creating discomfort for some visitors. Additionally, a common issue in Kolkata – persistent hassling and panhandling by transgender individuals – has unfortunately extended to the park, disrupting its serenity. It's important to acknowledge the efforts of authorities and volunteers who tirelessly work to manage these issues, striving to maintain a welcoming atmosphere for all. It's also important to address these broader social issues. Initiatives that create alternative income opportunities for those in need and foster understanding between diverse groups could benefit everyone who uses Rabindra Sarobar.

Beyond social concerns, Rabindra Sarobar also faces some ecological challenges. The waterbody has, in the past, been used for religious festivals like Chhat Puja. While these celebrations are important, rituals involving offerings can harm the aquatic ecosystem. Thankfully, authorities have taken steps to encourage alternative venues for such festivals. Designating specific locations with proper waste management infrastructure would ensure the sanctity of traditions while protecting the environment.

While Rabindra Sarobar offers a wealth of experience, some administrative regulations might limit public participation. For instance, commercial videography is restricted, unlike personal filming. However, allowing controlled commercial shoots could potentially benefit the park. Increased exposure through high-quality videos could raise awareness and attract more visitors, ultimately promoting this urban treasure.

Our Future Citizens

Rabindra Sarobar welcomes everyone – regardless of age, background, or interests. From outdoor painting and photography to birdwatching or simply taking an afternoon nap, there's something for everyone. But for me, the park's true magic lies in its ability to nurture children.

Today's children face unique challenges. Increased neurodiversity necessitates a focus on both support and natural stimulation. The decline of playgrounds and the shift to online learning have limited opportunities for physical activity and social interaction. The intense competition even at kindergarten levels adds unnecessary stress.

Rabindra Sarobar offers a sanctuary amidst the urban chaos. Here, children can experience nature firsthand, away from the city's noise. The playgrounds may not feature advanced equipment, but they provide a space for developing motor skills and socializing with kids of the same age. The calm and uncrowded environment creates a haven for focus and attention. Urban parks like Rabindra Sarobar have the potential to play a crucial role in shaping well-rounded future citizens.

Some Suggestions...

Cycling

Rabindra Sarobar can no longer be considered a hidden gem. Social media has propelled its popularity, making it a favorite weekend destination. The park's vast area itself is a major draw, offering a walking trail amidst nature despite the flat terrain. Park authorities already provide maps, zone guides, and even QR code-enabled information plaques for trees. However, the park's signage and interactive elements could be significantly improved. Enhanced environmental graphics with clearer walking trail directions, information on reaching specific points easily, and other interactive experiences (all while maintaining an immersive natural feel) would be beneficial. A creative addition could be a bicycle rental system, similar to those already operational in Salt Lake and New Town. Visitors could rent QR code-enabled bicycles for a nominal fee per hour from docking stations near some of the gates, allowing them to explore the park on wheels.

Illustration depicting Cycling

Cultural Activities

There are several respected institutions located in the neighborhoods surrounding Sarobar. They have active student clubs dedicated to diverse artistic pursuits like poetry, drama, and dance. Nazrul Mancha offers a magnificent stage, but its size and rental costs might not be feasible for student groups. To cultivate a vibrant cultural atmosphere, designated open-air spaces within the park could be utilized for student performances. Open-air theater productions, poetry recitals, or even musical jam sessions could resonate with the public and create a lively atmosphere, much like the popular "Shakespeare in the Park" events held in New York City's Central Park.

Illustration depicting Cultural Activities

Astronomy

Kolkata has one of the oldest planetariums in the country. However, to further ignite public interest in astronomy, the city's many active astronomy and astrophotography clubs can play a crucial role. Evening observation sessions organized by these clubs, with telescopes and expert guidance, could spark a passion for the night sky in both children and adults. Imagine gazing at celestial wonders right in the heart of the South Kolkata! I know of a certain organization called Sky Watchers’ Association which demonstrates the potential of such initiatives - they already conduct similar sessions nearby at Dakshinapan.

Illustration depicting children at Astronomical gatherings.

Citizen Science

Public participation can be a powerful tool for both enriching park activities and ensuring the health of Rabindra Sarobar's ecosystem. One avenue for this is citizen science. In the past, a floating platform near Shahid Bedi (Gate No. 10) served as a research platform. Reinstalling a similar platform could facilitate water sample collection for researchers in marine biology, aiding in monitoring the lake's health. I have already mentioned platforms like iNaturalist and eBird which allow visitors to contribute valuable data by recording their observations of flora and fauna. This information contributes to a publicly available record of the park's biodiversity. The Facebook group which I mentioned in the same context — "Biodiversity of Rabindra Sarobar”, also organizes nature walks throughout the year, offering another way for the public to engage with the park's natural wonders.

Illustration depicting Citizen Science
Furthermore, making this interesting, I came across a project called chronolog.io which offers a unique way to monitor the park's ecology. Chronolog establishes community-backed monitoring stations at parks around the world. At Rabindra Sarobar, a simple wooden post with a phone mount and clear instructions could be installed. Passersby could take photos using the mount, email them to a designated address with the station ID as the subject line, and contribute to a record of the park's changing landscape and ecology. The accumulated photos can be viewed on the website.

A dedicated management committee

Many environmentalists advocate for establishing a dedicated committee of urban planners, biodiversity experts, and human-centered design professionals. This team's combined knowledge could provide invaluable guidance on park development and conservation strategies. Their expertise would ensure the promotion of Rabindra Sarobar's rich flora and fauna while prioritizing sustainable practices for the park's long-term health.

Community-building

Rabindra Sarobar can become even more inclusive by improving accessibility by adding wheelchair-friendly ramps around the lake. Volunteer programs focused on park maintenance, tree planting, and educational workshops for children can foster a sense of community ownership and environmental stewardship. Additionally, collaborative outreach programs with residents of surrounding areas, including slums, can educate them on responsible waste disposal practices and the importance of conserving the park's ecosystem. By prioritizing accessibility and fostering community engagement, Rabindra Sarobar can ensure its long-term health and become a truly inclusive urban sanctuary for all.

Concluding...

I spent 22 years of my life in Kolkata, specifically in the areas around Kasba, Ballygunge, and Gariahat. I first started exploring Lake during my high school years, when we used to have our school's annual sports day practice at Vivekanda Park, which is just opposite to the Gate 10 of Sarobar. We used hang out there a lot, mostly during the evenings. Surprisingly, visiting Lake never felt like Visiting! It was more like roaming into just another part of our neighborhoods. May be, that's how an urban park should be immersed into our urban landscapes!
I am no urban planner, and never did I study anything related to it to say a lot about how a city should function or why urban parks are necessary. The above piece is derived from just how and what I experienced at Lake. I always wondered why I liked Lake so much, even if it was only sitting idly for hours there. I am a data analyst by day, and a designer by night. So, incidentally one day when I stumbled upon a Wikipedia article on New York's Central Park, and from there I got to know what an Urban Park is, I instantly got an idea of may be I can do a piece about Rabindra Sarobar — a bit of data viz, a bit of illustration, a bit of writing, blah blah blah!
After iterating over the piece for a long long time (almost 3 years after I originally though about this, and watering down almost 99% of what I thought) I came up with a simple output. There were many ways of improvising and making the content much better, but honestly, after managing work and life, I am relieved that it didn't take another 3 years to complete this (My portfolio's already really small, so can't wait). So, I'm really happy and grateful that you reached this point, that mean's you might have read or skipped, whatever it is, but most importantly you've visited. Many many thanks for that.
Cheers!🥂

Sources, Tools, and Methodologies

  • Definition of Urban Park from: Urban Park, Wikipedia - the free encyclopedia

  • % of Average Green Space per km² calculated from: The Asian Green City Index 2011
    Average population density:
    Average Green Spaces per person:
    Average Green Space per square kilometer:

  • Daily Temperature Data from: Central Pollution Control Board
    Data has been fetched for the period of 01 September, 2019 to 15 April, 2024 for the following weather monitoring stations:
    • Rabindra Sarobar
    • Ballygunge
    • Jadavpur
    • Victoria
    • Fort William
    You can check out the data here:  

  • Video of Satellite Imagery created using:
    Google Earth Studio icon
  • Photography, Design, and Editing by Arijit Gupta using:
    Adobe Illustrator icon Adobe Photoshop icon
  • Developed by Arijit Gupta using:
    Visual Studio Code icon Observable Framework icon D3js icon Observable Plot icon KaTeX icon
  • Writing edited with the help of:
    Google Gemini icon
  • A project like this takes a lot of time and resource to complete. Notion allowed me to manage all of that in one place.
    For full disclosure, I'm a Notion Partner, so when you sign up with my link by clicking on the below badge, you also help support me and my content!
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Special thanks to my best friend — Samriddhi Mitra, for her help and guidance in matters of writing, editing, and design. I am grateful for her kind support!